Crystal Pier is behind me. It’s along this few hundred yards of beach where I believe I first rode a wave. I was 3 or 4 years old on an inflatable rubber mat guided by my father. Worrying my mother. Encouraged by my aunties and uncles. It’s a vivid memory. Surfers call the intense good feeling riding waves “stoke.” The current was strong and the waves not great for bodysurfing today but I got the feeling. Lean into whatever gives you #stoke. It’s important.