Trash is classy in Barrio Logan because of this lovely Lotería card—meta-trash on an actual bote de basura — painting by @german_rojas789
1
08-Oct-2022
6 feet away from me this morning.
1
06-Oct-2022
Wetsuit last year XXXXL. Wetsuit now XXXL. Also this is my waves are good for my use face.#stoke
1
05-Oct-2022
Stayed in the water 15 minutes past sunset. Wetsuit time.
1
04-Oct-2022
Parking lots at the beach are a bit emptier each passing day. Very close to wetsuit times.
1
03-Oct-2022
I listened to so much music and so much talk radio on that device. It also had an audio out jack allowing me to record radio shows onto a separate recorder. Mono only, of course. I had an extra long mono earplug I could attach to it and listen in one ear as I fell asleep. I was 12. This was in Gretna, Louisiana. Across the Mississippi from New Orleans.
1
02-Oct-2022
Kelly and I visited the Tijuana Estuary in Imperial Beach. Mellow and sublime.
1
01-Oct-2022
Glassy a.m.
1
30-Sep-2022
T-Street. Met a fellow handplaning bodysurfer this morning. So blessed. Whatever that word means to you. It’s good though.
1
29-Sep-2022
joyous and exultant
1
29-Sep-2022
WILTERN / HARRISON / BELEW (remain-in-light)
1
28-Sep-2022
“Bro I *know* you’re cold!” says the shaggy blonde surfer to me. “That’s right!” I reply, surprised. Chance of wetsuit next sesh.
1
28-Sep-2022
Expatriate kid. Manila. My grandma had sewn that shirt. She let me pick the fabric. A red and white gingham from a fabric store on Balboa Avenue.
1
28-Sep-2022
Costuming. High school. From stylish devil (Red sweat pants, horns removed from a cap I had, red sport coat I got at a thrift store in Pacific Beach); to Hare Krishna (I bought that orange fabric myself and the same fabric is now one side of the quilt on my bed; bald cap; and the blonde hair belonging to my aunt, said hair was removed when her head was shaved of her blonde hair to treat her surfing injury; plus of course carnations and a walking stick). I would not wear the Krishna costume now, far too insensitive; but I was earnest at the time about playing the role. Also at the time i knew at least one or two guys I knew in HS would have meals at the Krishna center in PB and only said kind things about the adherents. 1980s. Yes, a new photo scanning job came back.
9 frames in the water. Culled from 30 minutes the video ran.
1
25-Sep-2022
Bathymetry, et cetera.
1
24-Sep-2022
Today at OB reflected waves were going out from the beach and occasionally intersecting with incoming waves. While bodysurfing a wave toward beach it hit a backwash waves and I was thrown me upward like a pizza pie. Incredible.
1
23-Sep-2022
7am shadow. OB. Seen in the water: man with prosthetic leg paddleboarding with great style; 6 year old girl getting stoked; a klatsch of 8 year old boys whose chittery enthusiasm for every wave was unbounded; one 8-inch across stingray who undulated away lickity split.