August, 2022: 9 posts.
Looks like CalTech is making them all available in one place. Very cool. www.feynmanlectures.caltech.edu
Paipo, Alaias and body surfing are all making a comeback, not that they really ever left. So long as wave riders forgo their leashes, waves will be waves and toss said riders ass over tin cup requiring a body surf to the beach to recover their surf craft. When “surfing” is not so narrowly defined as standing up on a board, the full spectrum of wave riding can be experienced not as separate pieces but as part of the whole enchilada. Standing up on a Alaia or a fish, lying down on a mat or a Paipo or total immersed body surfing with or without a handplane. Surfers just want to be in the water!
I thought this was great: TOD PAPAGEORGE: from “The Beaches, Los Angeles” 1979 – 1982