Hi said a bodysurfer to me as though she knew me. Hi I say back unsure. You let me borrow your hand plane last year! Oh yeah! I remember. Ive got my own now! Then she takes off and shreds a killer left. Always share the stoke.#stoke#bodysurfing
At Moonlight Beach earlier. Taken by my pal Margot visiting from NorCal.
1
04-Dec-2022
Bodysurfed at Del Mar with a bunch of other bodysurfers. Weird but very pleasant to be in a lineup with only other bodysurfers. So much skill on display. I’ve learned a lot; I have a lot to learn.
1
02-Dec-2022
I took the day off today and it was a chance to introspect my feelings, fears, angers. Knowing precisely or at least closely how I feel is always step 1 of sorting out what to do next. Also scored sweet shells. And I always consider dolphin sightings an auspicious omen. Despite my rational brain rejecting that as, of course, ridiculous. Onward.