Temperature perception in human being: air (50F) colder than water (58F) makes the water seem warm. It felt great. Wetsuit important too.#stoke
1
27-Jan-2022
It’s been six days since I was in the ocean so here’s a photo of me at Mission Bay as a kid. We lived in Los Angeles at the time but even then I loved water.
1
27-Jan-2022
My grandmother Jean Crawford riding a wave in the mid 70s. No bodyboards invented yet, that’s a classic inflatable rubber mat.#stoke#pacificbeachsd
1
16-Jan-2022
I fought my way past the breakers. Big current today, one day post Tonga. Part of any physical hobby is knowing when to stop. Life is so rich.
1
11-Jan-2022
I don’t know why the rescue boat was patrolling. Snagged a selfie while it was there.#stoke
1
31-Dec-2021
I had 247 swim sessions in 2021. Pool, Pacific, snorkeling, Atlantic, hotel, bodysurfing, lap. I don’t have a #top9, sorry.#stoke#swimming
1
17-Dec-2021
New phone case. Before the surf roughed me up. BEAUTIFUL day. Air 64. Water 59F.
1
12-Dec-2021
A morning with waves to ride so good I stayed too long. Got sloppy and hit bottom. I’m exhausted but came out of the water smiling.#stoke
1
05-Dec-2021
I lost a fin. I came out of the water smiling anyway.#stoke