Wetsuit First Use. It’s different. More buoyant. Less flexible. More hydrodynamic. Less able to judge how long it takes to get from A to B. Warmer. I felt a bit like a cat the first time you put it on a leash.
Surfline says the temp between 60 and 62 F. Ever closer to needing wetsuit. Lots of seaweed churned up with recent weather and surge. But always a balm to get to go in the water.
Water brown with churn, waves large and chaotic, wore me out quick. But very glad I took a shot.
Sunny Sunday
“Waterman” is a word I see written and said as a compliment about people who play, relax, and work in the sea. I dislike that it’s gendered in the same way “craftsman” is but I like the idea of the word. The ocean is getting colder by the day. I haven’t tried out the spring wetsuit I bought but I can tell I’ll be using it in the next few weeks. Playing in big waves might be foolhardy for a person my size and age but I’m having fun and am strong. So far: surviving and I always come out of the water smiling, even if I get stung by a stingray, gash open my heel, lose my phone, wrench my shoulder, or bang my head on the sand. And so, onward. #stoke
PLEASE SHOWER BEFORE
Pelican in the lineup. #pelicantober #surftober #stoke #Windansea #surfing
Tide at 0.1 feet.
I went to the beach today after a little drizzle and before rain thunder and lightning. These are the craters from the drizzle.
a sunday session
sunny down snuff I’m all right
Behind a wave / In a wave #stoke
bonus pic from a great lunch sesh
take off / to the great white north / take off/ it’s a beauty way to go
roiling
Midday chlorine laps
Shadowing
“It’s just a flesh wound.” Seems like I stepped on a barnacle or rock or something like that. Doesn’t feel like stingray. I know exactly what that feels like.
Every day is different.
I spy with my little eye: an ultralight! Add it to the list of surprising things seen while bodysurfing at Jetty.
Exquisite, bouncy bodysurfing session. And it’s Friday.
It was a real good morning.
Big swell 8am saw dolphins took some on the head. Excellent morning. #stoke
Morning session on this latest swell damn good.
of course i like to say hello!
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