The water this morning was clear and perfect. It was my first time to bodysurf at the Jetty in the early morning since the Stingray Incident on the early morning of July 19. I’ve been cautious and have tended to go to the beach in the late afternoon and evening sessions. And shuffling my feet more diligently. Getting stabbed in the foot definitely affected my responses—how I carry myself in the water. I have felt myself relearning the ocean. For many weeks nearly everything in the water set off a fight-or-flight response which I had to manage and learn to process anew. “That’s not a stingray, that’s a bunch of kelp. That’s not a stingray that’s a rock. That’s not a stingray, that’s some trash. And even, that’s not a stingray I’m looking at, that’s my own shadow.” The fear didn’t keep me from swimming, but it reminds me that as a kid I saw Jaws at age 6 and I remember imagining sharks in the water then. I had moments in the water where I worked up a fear based on imagined threats. It’s been an incredible opportunity to experience that again, and learn to manage those feelings and emotions in a way that’s proportionate to the threat. There are definitely critters and currents that demand respect and attention in the water, but like learning to walk in a city or drive in traffic, it can be learned. I consider this all in the category of “know thyself.”
1
10-Sep-2021
My cousin @jonnysnow16 gets his #stoke with a snowboard on his feet, I get mine with fins. Same difference! He got me this keychain and I love it. Thanks Cuz!
1
08-Sep-2021
7:04. Shut it down for the night.
1
07-Sep-2021
This butterfly was face down in the water on the glassy tide. I scooped it up. Let it dry on my finger. It batted its wings and and was back in the drink. Scooped it again and held it in my cupped hands. I blew on it. We hung out. It made a break for the shore. It flew toward shore beyond my aging vision. I like to think critter made it safely somewhere good.
1
06-Sep-2021
The swell has brought both shorebirds and surfers to the water.
1
03-Sep-2021
They’re not shooting the pier this morning but it’s prettier than any music lyric anyway. Huntington Beach.
1
01-Sep-2021
Guards
1
01-Sep-2021
lunchwaves
1
31-Aug-2021
Even the birds are chilly tonight.
1
30-Aug-2021
Home beach. Water getting colder each day, feels like.
1
28-Aug-2021
Saturday
1
27-Aug-2021
Sunset sand castle spied while walking.
1
26-Aug-2021
My shoulder hurts so no bodysurfing today. Make due with this sunrise from this morning looking east from the Jetty parking lot before my walk. Gonna get myself some naproxen now.
1
25-Aug-2021
Walking back to shore tonight I saw a stingray in the shallow water scurrying away from me. My shuffling habits are more diligent. Safety first.
Flat tar cakes like this can form from oil that’s spilled and congeals over time on the ocean. Here some small mollusks made it their home. I’m going to keep voting against people who think more drilling is a good idea.
“the waiting is the hardest part”
Floating
The water this morning was clear and perfect. It was my first time to bodysurf at the Jetty in the early morning since the Stingray Incident on the early morning of July 19. I’ve been cautious and have tended to go to the beach in the late afternoon and evening sessions. And shuffling my feet more diligently. Getting stabbed in the foot definitely affected my responses—how I carry myself in the water. I have felt myself relearning the ocean. For many weeks nearly everything in the water set off a fight-or-flight response which I had to manage and learn to process anew. “That’s not a stingray, that’s a bunch of kelp. That’s not a stingray that’s a rock. That’s not a stingray, that’s some trash. And even, that’s not a stingray I’m looking at, that’s my own shadow.” The fear didn’t keep me from swimming, but it reminds me that as a kid I saw Jaws at age 6 and I remember imagining sharks in the water then. I had moments in the water where I worked up a fear based on imagined threats. It’s been an incredible opportunity to experience that again, and learn to manage those feelings and emotions in a way that’s proportionate to the threat. There are definitely critters and currents that demand respect and attention in the water, but like learning to walk in a city or drive in traffic, it can be learned. I consider this all in the category of “know thyself.”
My cousin @jonnysnow16 gets his #stoke with a snowboard on his feet, I get mine with fins. Same difference! He got me this keychain and I love it. Thanks Cuz!
7:04. Shut it down for the night.
This butterfly was face down in the water on the glassy tide. I scooped it up. Let it dry on my finger. It batted its wings and and was back in the drink. Scooped it again and held it in my cupped hands. I blew on it. We hung out. It made a break for the shore. It flew toward shore beyond my aging vision. I like to think critter made it safely somewhere good.
The swell has brought both shorebirds and surfers to the water.
They’re not shooting the pier this morning but it’s prettier than any music lyric anyway. Huntington Beach.
Guards
lunchwaves
Even the birds are chilly tonight.
Home beach. Water getting colder each day, feels like.
Saturday
Sunset sand castle spied while walking.
My shoulder hurts so no bodysurfing today. Make due with this sunrise from this morning looking east from the Jetty parking lot before my walk. Gonna get myself some naproxen now.
Walking back to shore tonight I saw a stingray in the shallow water scurrying away from me. My shuffling habits are more diligent. Safety first.
Sun sets earlier every day now.
Weekend session with @hellokellykuhl
bird foot overcast
Looking toward PB Point
Flat tar cakes like this can form from oil that’s spilled and congeals over time on the ocean. Here some small mollusks made it their home. I’m going to keep voting against people who think more drilling is a good idea.
Del Mar today
My favorite of the Italian surrealist comedies.
Beach visit 2 of 2. OB.