Tags → swim2022
It was big and firing today! I have been a week away from the ocean. Too long but worth it to be on the new adventure of moving!
Conditions before the storm: plenty chilly; wind rising; some good waves; better, maybe, for kiteboarders.
Bodysurfed at Del Mar with a bunch of other bodysurfers. Weird but very pleasant to be in a lineup with only other bodysurfers. So much skill on display. I’ve learned a lot; I have a lot to learn.
I took the day off today and it was a chance to introspect my feelings, fears, angers. Knowing precisely or at least closely how I feel is always step 1 of sorting out what to do next. Also scored sweet shells. And I always consider dolphin sightings an auspicious omen. Despite my rational brain rejecting that as, of course, ridiculous. Onward.
Massive thickets of seaweed. I stayed until my toes were numb. Rode waves with fellow bodysurfer @quantumprimordial. Great session.
Parked at Belmont Park & walked to the Jetty. Thanksgiving week for San Diego means folks visiting the beach. I’m all for it.
Neck Foam. This morning was “messy” as I overheard one surfer say. But I got a “right” so good it might have been the best I ever rode a wave. I stayed on the lip as it did several shape changes. A fine long improvisation.
I don’t think about my novelty among the surfers but I am. Two conversations today. (I ride in on the face of a wave, end up near a surfer). He asks: “how are you doing that?!” “What?” I reply. “I mean, what are you riding?” I hold up my handplanes: “handplanes—for bodysurfing.” “Cool! Thanks!” …(later)… A surfer turns around and starts his takeoff in front of me. I go to ground, going to the bottom—it’s in my interest to be well out of the way of large heavy fiberglass boards moving fast. When I come up, the surfer is still there. He missed his wave. “You scared me!” he exclaims, but friendly. “Sorry,” I say, sincerely. “I didn’t know what you were! I thought you were a sea lion!” “Aren’t we all though?” I reply. #bodysurfing #stoke #handplane