“Some people say / this town don’t look good in snow”
Weather and professional responsibilities kept me out of the water for four days. Back this morning. Terrific.
I fought my way past the breakers. Big current today, one day post Tonga. Part of any physical hobby is knowing when to stop. Life is so rich.
It’s an honor to get to play in huge surf. Bracing, beautiful afternoon at the tail of a nice swell.
I don’t know why the rescue boat was patrolling. Snagged a selfie while it was there. #stoke
Things also look very nice from the water
Yes, dolphins in the lineup.
Cold and not for the skittish. It’s fun to swim a maelstrom sometimes.
Tide receding. Lovely session.
Every day is unique
of course i like to say hello!
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