Last swim of 2022 was in a pool.
Swam some laps in mostly dark. Move nearly done.
It was big and firing today! I have been a week away from the ocean. Too long but worth it to be on the new adventure of moving!
swim zone\o.b.
Ice cream headache at the top of me; numb toes at the bottom of me.
Conditions before the storm: plenty chilly; wind rising; some good waves; better, maybe, for kiteboarders.
At Moonlight Beach earlier. Taken by my pal Margot visiting from NorCal.
Bodysurfed at Del Mar with a bunch of other bodysurfers. Weird but very pleasant to be in a lineup with only other bodysurfers. So much skill on display. I’ve learned a lot; I have a lot to learn.
Saturday mornings are good.
I took the day off today and it was a chance to introspect my feelings, fears, angers. Knowing precisely or at least closely how I feel is always step 1 of sorting out what to do next. Also scored sweet shells. And I always consider dolphin sightings an auspicious omen. Despite my rational brain rejecting that as, of course, ridiculous. Onward.
Scripps. Big waves today. Several jaunts spent getting trapped in; and getting out of rip currents.
over\under at Scripps
Start the day in water / End the day in water
Thankful. 2022. #stoke
Negative low tide nonetheless produced some fun powerful surf.
Massive thickets of seaweed. I stayed until my toes were numb. Rode waves with fellow bodysurfer @quantumprimordial. Great session.
Colder than yesterday. But better lefts and rights.
Parked at Belmont Park & walked to the Jetty. Thanksgiving week for San Diego means folks visiting the beach. I’m all for it.
Rare middle of the day aquatics
Neck Foam. This morning was “messy” as I overheard one surfer say. But I got a “right” so good it might have been the best I ever rode a wave. I stayed on the lip as it did several shape changes. A fine long improvisation.
O.B.E. (Ocean Beach, early)
dawn patrol
51°F air when I hit the water. Standard Time. Dawn patrol in my future.
I don’t think about my novelty among the surfers but I am. Two conversations today. (I ride in on the face of a wave, end up near a surfer). He asks: “how are you doing that?!” “What?” I reply. “I mean, what are you riding?” I hold up my handplanes: “handplanes—for bodysurfing.” “Cool! Thanks!” …(later)… A surfer turns around and starts his takeoff in front of me. I go to ground, going to the bottom—it’s in my interest to be well out of the way of large heavy fiberglass boards moving fast. When I come up, the surfer is still there. He missed his wave. “You scared me!” he exclaims, but friendly. “Sorry,” I say, sincerely. “I didn’t know what you were! I thought you were a sea lion!” “Aren’t we all though?” I reply. #bodysurfing #stoke #handplane
of course i like to say hello!
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