Tags → “stoke” 

13-Jan-2023

Swimming, 2022. #stoke #swimming

10-Dec-2022

At Moonlight Beach earlier. Taken by my pal Margot visiting from NorCal.

04-Dec-2022

Bodysurfed at Del Mar with a bunch of other bodysurfers. Weird but very pleasant to be in a lineup with only other bodysurfers. So much skill on display. I’ve learned a lot; I have a lot to learn.

02-Dec-2022

I took the day off today and it was a chance to introspect my feelings, fears, angers. Knowing precisely or at least closely how I feel is always step 1 of sorting out what to do next. Also scored sweet shells. And I always consider dolphin sightings an auspicious omen. Despite my rational brain rejecting that as, of course, ridiculous. Onward.

24-Nov-2022

Thankful. 2022. #stoke

21-Nov-2022

Massive thickets of seaweed. I stayed until my toes were numb. Rode waves with fellow bodysurfer @quantumprimordial. Great session.

05-Nov-2022

I don’t think about my novelty among the surfers but I am. Two conversations today. (I ride in on the face of a wave, end up near a surfer). He asks: “how are you doing that?!” “What?” I reply. “I mean, what are you riding?” I hold up my handplanes: “handplanes—for bodysurfing.” “Cool! Thanks!” …(later)… A surfer turns around and starts his takeoff in front of me. I go to ground, going to the bottom—it’s in my interest to be well out of the way of large heavy fiberglass boards moving fast. When I come up, the surfer is still there. He missed his wave. “You scared me!” he exclaims, but friendly. “Sorry,” I say, sincerely. “I didn’t know what you were! I thought you were a sea lion!” “Aren’t we all though?” I reply. #bodysurfing #stoke #handplane

16-Oct-2022

I went to OB for “The Meeting of the Mats” put on by @lowerpowered & @yuccafins — I bought a surf mat from @packrattrecords before the summer. I struggled with the thing this morning but I have mucho positive vibes for inflatable surf mats. My earliest memory of being in the surf is on top of a canvas mat next to my dad just south of Crystal Pier. I was probably 3 or 4 and it was my pop setting me up to ride waves. Lots of fun and super fun feelings this morning around several dozen mat riders #surfmat #stoke #surf

09-Oct-2022

Fellow bodysurfer @quantumprimordial I met in the water! #stoke

06-Oct-2022

Wetsuit last year XXXXL. Wetsuit now XXXL. Also this is my waves are good for my use face. #stoke