Tags · stoke  
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Worked late, hit the beach before sunset. Saw @quantumprimordial in the water and told him about the sale on fins at the OB @birdssurfshed; saw dolphins. Fun quick sesh. #stoke
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I mentioned before the wetsuit that wouldn’t stay zipped in waves and would “Magic Mike” unzip. A little hackery based on some good advice and all is well.
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When I’m alone in the lineup I have no excuse to not catch catchable waves. So I catch the catchable or learn lessons. The lesson is usually kick harder. #stoke
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My first memory of the ocean was 20 yards to the south of this pier. I was small. On an inflatable mat. Father by my side. The memory is foggy. It was overcast. Make memories daily. #stoke
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Started near the pier and ended three quarters of a mile south. From 15-18 foot monsters to 4-8 foot waves and ending with choppy beach break with a young surfer out a bit far getting asked if he was okay by a passing lifeguard on pwc. What a terrific NYE at Scripps & La Jolla.
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My friend Al asked me to let him know when I hit the water again so he could practice his action photography and WOW @alabut pulled off this terrific shot from Crystal Pier! Every session is practice. Life is practice. #bodysurfing #stoke