Tags · stoke  
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“these are the good old days” #stoke
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Worked late, hit the beach before sunset. Saw @quantumprimordial in the water and told him about the sale on fins at the OB @birdssurfshed; saw dolphins. Fun quick sesh. #stoke
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I mentioned before the wetsuit that wouldn’t stay zipped in waves and would “Magic Mike” unzip. A little hackery based on some good advice and all is well.
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When I’m alone in the lineup I have no excuse to not catch catchable waves. So I catch the catchable or learn lessons. The lesson is usually kick harder. #stoke
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My first memory of the ocean was 20 yards to the south of this pier. I was small. On an inflatable mat. Father by my side. The memory is foggy. It was overcast. Make memories daily. #stoke