Stayed in the water 15 minutes past sunset. Wetsuit time.
Parking lots at the beach are a bit emptier each passing day. Very close to wetsuit times.
I listened to so much music and so much talk radio on that device. It also had an audio out jack allowing me to record radio shows onto a separate recorder. Mono only, of course. I had an extra long mono earplug I could attach to it and listen in one ear as I fell asleep. I was 12. This was in Gretna, Louisiana. Across the Mississippi from New Orleans.
Kelly and I visited the Tijuana Estuary in Imperial Beach. Mellow and sublime.
Glassy a.m.
T-Street. Met a fellow handplaning bodysurfer this morning. So blessed. Whatever that word means to you. It’s good though.
joyous and exultant
WILTERN / HARRISON / BELEW (remain-in-light)
“Bro I *know* you’re cold!” says the shaggy blonde surfer to me. “That’s right!” I reply, surprised. Chance of wetsuit next sesh.
Expatriate kid. Manila. My grandma had sewn that shirt. She let me pick the fabric. A red and white gingham from a fabric store on Balboa Avenue.
Costuming. High school. From stylish devil (Red sweat pants, horns removed from a cap I had, red sport coat I got at a thrift store in Pacific Beach); to Hare Krishna (I bought that orange fabric myself and the same fabric is now one side of the quilt on my bed; bald cap; and the blonde hair belonging to my aunt, said hair was removed when her head was shaved of her blonde hair to treat her surfing injury; plus of course carnations and a walking stick). I would not wear the Krishna costume now, far too insensitive; but I was earnest at the time about playing the role. Also at the time i knew at least one or two guys I knew in HS would have meals at the Krishna center in PB and only said kind things about the adherents. 1980s. Yes, a new photo scanning job came back.
When you have a piece of kit you like, you acquire a backup. #stoke #handplane @gofloats #gofloats
9 frames in the water. Culled from 30 minutes the video ran.
Bathymetry, et cetera.
Today at OB reflected waves were going out from the beach and occasionally intersecting with incoming waves. While bodysurfing a wave toward beach it hit a backwash waves and I was thrown me upward like a pizza pie. Incredible.
7am shadow. OB. Seen in the water: man with prosthetic leg paddleboarding with great style; 6 year old girl getting stoked; a klatsch of 8 year old boys whose chittery enthusiasm for every wave was unbounded; one 8-inch across stingray who undulated away lickity split.
Wetsuit soon. Maybe.
Have oysters
2 hours at Scripps
the shabby complicated beauty of @adamgnade wonderful reading #sandiegowriters at @libelula_books_co tonight
I can’t remember when I first heard @ana__carrete do a reading but it was too long ago in person. good true funny bittersweet worlds. @libelula_books_co #sandiegowriters
of course i like to say hello!
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