Saw Moulin Rouge in Orange County over the weekend. Delightful! Segerstrom Center for the Arts is darned impressive.
1
13-Nov-2022
It’s perfectly rational to acquire the same make and model cassette player I used to play my tapes in 1986 in my 1972 Volvo so that I could fully appreciate the ambiance and tales of the Nick Bernal (@burn_all_books) release on @helloamericalit cassette.
1
13-Nov-2022
Neck Foam. This morning was “messy” as I overheard one surfer say. But I got a “right” so good it might have been the best I ever rode a wave. I stayed on the lip as it did several shape changes. A fine long improvisation.
12-Nov-2022
I collect shells from the beaches of Southern California and sometimes I have enough to look at together.
12-Nov-2022
O.B.E. (Ocean Beach, early)
11-Nov-2022
dawn patrol
06-Nov-2022
51°F air when I hit the water. Standard Time. Dawn patrol in my future.
1
05-Nov-2022
I don’t think about my novelty among the surfers but I am. Two conversations today. (I ride in on the face of a wave, end up near a surfer). He asks: “how are you doing that?!” “What?” I reply. “I mean, what are you riding?” I hold up my handplanes: “handplanes—for bodysurfing.” “Cool! Thanks!” …(later)… A surfer turns around and starts his takeoff in front of me. I go to ground, going to the bottom—it’s in my interest to be well out of the way of large heavy fiberglass boards moving fast. When I come up, the surfer is still there. He missed his wave. “You scared me!” he exclaims, but friendly. “Sorry,” I say, sincerely. “I didn’t know what you were! I thought you were a sea lion!” “Aren’t we all though?” I reply.#bodysurfing#stoke#handplane
1
04-Nov-2022
No beach yesterday but there were rainbows.
1
02-Nov-2022
I’m calling these conditions “chaotic garbage” but it was fun to fight em for a half hour. Terra Mar Point.
1
31-Oct-2022
sunset was on fire tonight
1
30-Oct-2022
Stopped at Aliso Creek Beach in Laguna in Orange County. Not to be confused with the rest stop in northern San Diego County. No waves breaking, but I got a nice swim in.
1
29-Oct-2022
After sunset at Sunset Beach. That’s the moon up there. That’s Catalina out there. A lovely day with @hellokellykuhl & @gwenthegoblin
A bit after sunrise at Sunset Beach in Orange County. Punctuated by freighters offshore waiting on the Port of Los Angeles, some soul surfers, one paddleboarder, one swimmer, and a bunch of dolphins feeding.
1
27-Oct-2022
Orangey
1
26-Oct-2022
Was feeling poorly yesterday and took some time to assemble my water gear into clarity. Twin foci.
1
24-Oct-2022
Waveriding is partly motor memory and partly improvisational. I’m happy to practice.
1
23-Oct-2022
Beach Hazards Statement did not disappoint. Waves big. Tried two handplanes for the first time. Hour session wore me out fully.
1
22-Oct-2022
It’s swell out
1
21-Oct-2022
“Awaiting the sensation of a short sharp shock”
1
20-Oct-2022
Since the summer ended the sun goes down earlier. The lifeguards go off duty earlier. When they do, they remind folks about safety, they remind folks that alcohol and smoking are not allowed on the beach, and that “if you experience a water-related emergency to dial 911 and ask for lifeguards, we have a 24 hour service.” And tonight: they wished a new married couple to the north of the lifeguard tower “congratulations.” #sandiego#lifeguards@lifeguardsofsandiego