I’m calling these conditions “chaotic garbage” but it was fun to fight em for a half hour. Terra Mar Point.
1
31-Oct-2022
sunset was on fire tonight
1
30-Oct-2022
Stopped at Aliso Creek Beach in Laguna in Orange County. Not to be confused with the rest stop in northern San Diego County. No waves breaking, but I got a nice swim in.
A bit after sunrise at Sunset Beach in Orange County. Punctuated by freighters offshore waiting on the Port of Los Angeles, some soul surfers, one paddleboarder, one swimmer, and a bunch of dolphins feeding.
1
27-Oct-2022
Orangey
1
24-Oct-2022
Waveriding is partly motor memory and partly improvisational. I’m happy to practice.
1
23-Oct-2022
Beach Hazards Statement did not disappoint. Waves big. Tried two handplanes for the first time. Hour session wore me out fully.
1
22-Oct-2022
It’s swell out
1
21-Oct-2022
“Awaiting the sensation of a short sharp shock”
1
20-Oct-2022
Since the summer ended the sun goes down earlier. The lifeguards go off duty earlier. When they do, they remind folks about safety, they remind folks that alcohol and smoking are not allowed on the beach, and that “if you experience a water-related emergency to dial 911 and ask for lifeguards, we have a 24 hour service.” And tonight: they wished a new married couple to the north of the lifeguard tower “congratulations.” #sandiego#lifeguards@lifeguardsofsandiego
1
18-Oct-2022
“whether wind withers memory”
1
17-Oct-2022
Victory at Sea
1
16-Oct-2022
I went to OB for “The Meeting of the Mats” put on by @lowerpowered & @yuccafins — I bought a surf mat from @packrattrecords before the summer. I struggled with the thing this morning but I have mucho positive vibes for inflatable surf mats. My earliest memory of being in the surf is on top of a canvas mat next to my dad just south of Crystal Pier. I was probably 3 or 4 and it was my pop setting me up to ride waves. Lots of fun and super fun feelings this morning around several dozen mat riders#surfmat#stoke#surf