Pools are also a privilege I remind myself as I pine for the sea
It’s been a long week. Beautiful tho.
12 to 15 foot waves at Pipes. Brief post-work session. Sunset was 5:01pm and better daily.
What’s the cliché from the Academy Awards? “It’s an honor just to be nominated” — incredibly powerful water. None really very rideable for me unless you count bouncing around in flotsam like a stray buoy. I witnessed one surfer riding a huge fast wave in front of me. I did get past the monster breakers. The exhilaration and the view of the shore as I get raised 15-20 feet by a passing wave will always be a favorite. No photos taken; every ounce of my concentration and effort was swimming and staying safe. Know your limits.
Back to it as the first big 2023 swell wanes. The rain has subsided for now.
of course i like to say hello!
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