I wore my old wetsuit today. It’s had more wear and tear than the one I got in January. But the zipper works better. It’s the same model, but the new one has this comedic attribute: in a big wave, or even a strong wave, the zipper tends to open from my neck down to my left leg like I was a character in Magic Mike. Luckily pretty soon I won’t have to wear a wetsuit in the water.
Waves were flat today. I was alone in the water a few times. Smattering of longboard riders. Older, mostly. There was a fella on the Jetty with his goat. He said neither he nor his goat liked the ocean. They don’t like to be cold. Also near the Jetty: a large collection of baby stingray, scattering from the swoop of my swim fins. Each one with a body about the size of a big chocolate chip cookie. Not a bad birthday’s eve session.
Riding waves is mostly solitary but sometimes there’s an opportunity for it to be social. @bairdphoto was at Ocean Beach at his son’s high school surf contest and reached out at the critical hour I was waking up and deciding which break to start Saturday at. I decided on OB. Daniel even snuck out into the water for a Party Wave!
“You weren’t in the way—I see you can get out of the way fast—you’re like an effing dolphin” was the reply after I ducked under a surfer taking off. I came up—they were still there—“Sorry for getting in the way” I had said. I do not mind being compared to a dolphin.