December 2023 Fifty-one posts
Started near the pier and ended three quarters of a mile south. From 15-18 foot monsters to 4-8 foot waves and ending with choppy beach break with a young surfer out a bit far getting asked if he was okay by a passing lifeguard on pwc. What a terrific NYE at Scripps & La Jolla.
La Jolla Shores Today
Went into the closeouts this morning for a brief session followed by coffee with very special people. A fine morning to look at big waves and have great conversations.
After I hit the bottom with my face I got out and went to the showers. I was asked if I was okay by a Dad. I was asked if it hurt. Yes, I was okay. It just stings a bit. “How does it look?” I asked. “Hard to tell with the blood.” Kid asked if I wanted to look in his phone. I did. Not bad. Kid told me it looked “kind of badass.” I thanked the kid for letting me see in his phone and told the kid “as I get older I try to do things I can do and not more than that. Today was a lesson.”
Congratulations, you reinvented television by inventing television.
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