from Instagram https://instagr.am/p/CnLCNSQP0Y5/ via IFTTT

What’s the cliché from the Academy Awards? “It’s an honor just to be nominated” — incredibly powerful water. None really very rideable for me unless you count bouncing around in flotsam like a stray buoy. I witnessed one surfer riding a huge fast wave in front of me. I did get past the monster breakers. The exhilaration and the view of the shore as I get raised 15-20 feet by a passing wave will always be a favorite. No photos taken; every ounce of my concentration and effort was swimming and staying safe. Know your limits.