I hit the beach late.
When I was walking into the water a stray surfboard was tumbling toward the shore.
Sure enough, there was a surfer working his way in, chasing his stray board.
I stopped it.

“I guess the session is over!” the young man quipped, smiling.
When I was done with the session and headed in, I noticed another loose board–tumbling ahead of me, toward the land.
I chased it, riding some small waves.
I spend so much time trying to catch difficult waves I forget how much better I’ve gotten riding small waves
I met the runaway yellow board. I flipped it right-side up. I don’t ride these but I have seen so may surfers handle their boards I know what to do.
A surfer was soon enough there, smiling and saying a “Thanks dude!”
I don’t have a photo. We were out of range of the surf cam.
An hour separated the first board rescue and the second.
In between I had some fun. Caught a few chaotic waves.
The chaos explained how those surfboards got loose.

It’s fun to have novel adventures in the water. Dolphin sightings. Sea lion sightings. Seeing folks I know. Seeing Drone Dude Ed’s drone overhead.
A stray surfboard seems like a fun adventure. But it’s dead serious.
A board loose like that could really hurt somebody. Could hurt me if I didn’t see it coming at me.
My aunt got hit with her board in the 1970s. Required brain surgery.
And last year a surfer was coming out of the water and asked for my help. He’d been cut by a fin on his board.

This is why I have rules for myself.
When I start getting tired I intone to myself “I am tired.” If I make an error, I mark a strike. Three strikes? I get out.
If I get in the way of a surfer, I say to myself: “that’s an error.”
A strike can even just be having the thought: “I think I’m done.”
No matter if the waves are great. No matter if I’m not tired.
When I’ve ignored those strikes? That’s when bad things happen.

Every day a new lesson.
Here’s today’s data, from Strava:
Thanks for reading.
Here’s to bloodless lessons.
one comment...
That was brutal. I hope you are doing alright by now.