Tags · swim2023
I swim and bodysurf year-round.
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15-May-2023
The most interesting and peculiar photos I take are when the video stays on inadvertently. Big waves and rip currents and outgoing waves and more rips. Very enjoyable session. -
14-May-2023
The accessibility ramp on the sand is back. In the water I met a surfer from Brazil by way of L.A.. A fine mellow session. -
13-May-2023
Went to OB this morning and rode waves with bodysurfers and bodyboarders and Jeff who was riding a random piece of square plywood he found the week before. He was shredding on it. -
12-May-2023
“I got a pocket, got a pocketful of sunshine” -
07-May-2023
Time for reflection -
06-May-2023
Sun protection -
05-May-2023
(how the week ends) -
30-Apr-2023
Weekend mornings are sometimes eventful! Some great corners to ride. Once again @lifeguardsofsandiego always awesome hooking me up with the hot hot water and fine foot wrapping. Stingray encounter # 5 in the last 2 years i think. First time at OB. -
25-Apr-2023
Gear -
24-Apr-2023
During one ride today I lost one of my handplanes. That ride was like going down a long steep snowy hillside on my back. Incredible speed. Thrilling. I got the handplane back at the ehd. A surfer brought it to shore. She said “I thought it would be easy to bring it in but it about killed me.” I thanked her. -
23-Apr-2023
Summery today. Every day fresh and new. Beach parking lot blacktop getting hotter. Today was Scripps. -
22-Apr-2023
Kneel -
20-Apr-2023
The sun has set / La Jolla -
18-Apr-2023
Went out at one spot, came back in a quarter mile north. -
17-Apr-2023
A good rideable wave rolls in and starts to fold over and breaks gradually. The boys I went to high school with would draw an iconic perfect tubular wave curling over and breaking just like that forever. People who ride waves chase such waves. Today the waves were warped as though seen through a funhouse mirror. They started then stopped and then started again. Required improvisation to have fun with. And I did. -
16-Apr-2023
Nice bodysurfing session if a bit choppy. Plus I got to see a handful of the Velella Velella (aka By-the-Wind-Sailors). The biology of these things is amazing. They are each a “colony” that feeds on plankton. They live in all the planet’s oceans but I’ve never seen or heard of them before. It’s a treat to get to see a few up close. -
15-Apr-2023
No photos today, rather a still from a video, sweetened in Procreate. -
09-Apr-2023
Last Easter I stepped on a stingray and had my bag removed from the beach (I got it back the next day). This Easter? Easter Egg Hunt successful. -
08-Apr-2023
Chilly but clear and sunny and people are back at the beach -
06-Apr-2023
OBGLASS -
02-Apr-2023
I wore my old wetsuit today. It’s had more wear and tear than the one I got in January. But the zipper works better. It’s the same model, but the new one has this comedic attribute: in a big wave, or even a strong wave, the zipper tends to open from my neck down to my left leg like I was a character in Magic Mike. Luckily pretty soon I won’t have to wear a wetsuit in the water. -
01-Apr-2023
Aces to be back -
19-Mar-2023
Waves were flat today. I was alone in the water a few times. Smattering of longboard riders. Older, mostly. There was a fella on the Jetty with his goat. He said neither he nor his goat liked the ocean. They don’t like to be cold. Also near the Jetty: a large collection of baby stingray, scattering from the swoop of my swim fins. Each one with a body about the size of a big chocolate chip cookie. Not a bad birthday’s eve session. -
18-Mar-2023
Dolphins don’t ever go 13 days without the ocean. Sea birds neither. Birthday weekend commenceth.