Tags · swim2023
I swim and bodysurf year-round.
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Home away from home
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I’m pretty sure the last time my cousin Leeman and I got in the ocean together was 36 years ago. Maybe less between time next time.
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breakadawn
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I can’t remember if I’ve done a selfie with her. Scripps.
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Spent 3 hours in the water hanging out at Oceanside Pier. President Biden went to Ukraine. It’s a good day to celebrate the good things about the USA. There are a few!
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Beach parking lots are filling / spring is headed here quick
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Spent sundown in a cluster of other bodysurfers
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I don’t go to Crystal Pier often but it looked fun on the cameras. And it was fun!
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That blur is me riding a wave. Surfline camera. Maelstrom today. OB. Great way to end the week.
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Postwork @ Terramar
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Brief swim last night
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Riding waves is mostly solitary but sometimes there’s an opportunity for it to be social. @bairdphoto was at Ocean Beach at his son’s high school surf contest and reached out at the critical hour I was waking up and deciding which break to start Saturday at. I decided on OB. Daniel even snuck out into the water for a Party Wave!
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Prework stoke
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sea lion cruising by 2 feet away from me. a local.
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Went to Ponto jetties after work. Rocks no fun to walk on.
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Brief swim last night
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This Sunday
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“You weren’t in the way—I see you can get out of the way fast—you’re like an effing dolphin” was the reply after I ducked under a surfer taking off. I came up—they were still there—“Sorry for getting in the way” I had said. I do not mind being compared to a dolphin.
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Pools are also a privilege I remind myself as I pine for the sea
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It’s been a long week. Beautiful tho.
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12 to 15 foot waves at Pipes. Brief post-work session. Sunset was 5:01pm and better daily.
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What’s the cliché from the Academy Awards? “It’s an honor just to be nominated” — incredibly powerful water. None really very rideable for me unless you count bouncing around in flotsam like a stray buoy. I witnessed one surfer riding a huge fast wave in front of me. I did get past the monster breakers. The exhilaration and the view of the shore as I get raised 15-20 feet by a passing wave will always be a favorite. No photos taken; every ounce of my concentration and effort was swimming and staying safe. Know your limits.
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Back to it as the first big 2023 swell wanes. The rain has subsided for now.