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A bit after sunrise at Sunset Beach in Orange County. Punctuated by freighters offshore waiting on the Port of Los Angeles, some soul surfers, one paddleboarder, one swimmer, and a bunch of dolphins feeding.
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Was feeling poorly yesterday and took some time to assemble my water gear into clarity. Twin foci.
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Waveriding is partly motor memory and partly improvisational. I’m happy to practice.
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Beach Hazards Statement did not disappoint. Waves big. Tried two handplanes for the first time. Hour session wore me out fully.
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“Awaiting the sensation of a short sharp shock”
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