Tags · swim2023
I swim and bodysurf year-round.
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Started near the pier and ended three quarters of a mile south. From 15-18 foot monsters to 4-8 foot waves and ending with choppy beach break with a young surfer out a bit far getting asked if he was okay by a passing lifeguard on pwc. What a terrific NYE at Scripps & La Jolla.
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La Jolla Shores Today
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Went into the closeouts this morning for a brief session followed by coffee with very special people. A fine morning to look at big waves and have great conversations.
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After I hit the bottom with my face I got out and went to the showers. I was asked if I was okay by a Dad. I was asked if it hurt. Yes, I was okay. It just stings a bit. “How does it look?” I asked. “Hard to tell with the blood.” Kid asked if I wanted to look in his phone. I did. Not bad. Kid told me it looked “kind of badass.” I thanked the kid for letting me see in his phone and told the kid “as I get older I try to do things I can do and not more than that. Today was a lesson.”
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An excellent Christmas Day together with K in the morning and with family in the afternoon, capped with a short beach session.
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My friend Al asked me to let him know when I hit the water again so he could practice his action photography and WOW @alabut pulled off this terrific shot from Crystal Pier! Every session is practice. Life is practice. #bodysurfing #stoke
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Whoever put a Christmas tree on the berm at Mission Beach: I salute you! Merry Christmas!
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The currents were wild this morning. I rode one backwash wave out from the shore toward the breakers. Plus I was held down for a bit after one wave. A full morning. There’s a storm coming.
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Tubular Day
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Christmastime in PB. Featuring chalk “love” by @artbyautumn and surf footage from @surfline
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Fun lunchtime
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Spent the day speaking with smart creative people about things #indieweb and exhausted my voice and brain and the capper was a dip in the water and a few wave rides.
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Noon sesh
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Good practice today
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‘Tis the Season OB
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Glassy fiery sunset tonight at OB
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OB this afternoon
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Today Scripps
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95% closeouts; still fun to play in
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6 shots from OB this afternoon. Sublime day.
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Not great conditions. Got a right on the surf cam. Saw the Christmas tree. Lastly: saw a group of hippies playing guitar as their rooster on a leash cock-a-doodled. OB never disappoints.
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Session where I see a surfing dog is a good session. #surfingdog #sandiego #obvibes
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It’s a nice surprise to notice my dad’s features in my face.
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Pre-rain, the sunset was good at OB.