Tags · swim2022
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T-Street. Met a fellow handplaning bodysurfer this morning. So blessed. Whatever that word means to you. It’s good though.
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“Bro I *know* you’re cold!” says the shaggy blonde surfer to me. “That’s right!” I reply, surprised. Chance of wetsuit next sesh.
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9 frames in the water. Culled from 30 minutes the video ran.
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Bathymetry, et cetera.
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Today at OB reflected waves were going out from the beach and occasionally intersecting with incoming waves. While bodysurfing a wave toward beach it hit a backwash waves and I was thrown me upward like a pizza pie. Incredible.
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7am shadow. OB. Seen in the water: man with prosthetic leg paddleboarding with great style; 6 year old girl getting stoked; a klatsch of 8 year old boys whose chittery enthusiasm for every wave was unbounded; one 8-inch across stingray who undulated away lickity split.
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Wetsuit soon. Maybe.
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2 hours at Scripps
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Low tide whomp; parking lot emptier; an abandoned toy: papillon violet.
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Last light, home beach #stoke
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There’s a lot going on under the water.
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bubbs
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It was quite a month for both of us. It’s great to get out in the water as a respite.
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Eclipseish
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Currently
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Beach time often requires sun protection
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I can feel the weather changing one session at a time.
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lj tonite
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“I belong to the _____ generation / I can take it or leave it each time”
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“I like a Gershwin tune / How about you?”
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Dolphins out always feels like an auspicious omen for the session. Plus June Gloom-style weather. August.
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Today: Strand
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golden hour phone shadow
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keep coming back — it works if you work it #stoke