November 2022 Twenty-nine posts
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I collect shells from the beaches of Southern California and sometimes I have enough to look at together.
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O.B.E. (Ocean Beach, early)
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dawn patrol
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08-Nov-2022
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51°F air when I hit the water. Standard Time. Dawn patrol in my future.
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I don’t think about my novelty among the surfers but I am. Two conversations today. (I ride in on the face of a wave, end up near a surfer). He asks: “how are you doing that?!” “What?” I reply. “I mean, what are you riding?” I hold up my handplanes: “handplanes—for bodysurfing.” “Cool! Thanks!” …(later)… A surfer turns around and starts his takeoff in front of me. I go to ground, going to the bottom—it’s in my interest to be well out of the way of large heavy fiberglass boards moving fast. When I come up, the surfer is still there. He missed his wave. “You scared me!” he exclaims, but friendly. “Sorry,” I say, sincerely. “I didn’t know what you were! I thought you were a sea lion!” “Aren’t we all though?” I reply. #bodysurfing #stoke #handplane
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No beach yesterday but there were rainbows.
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I’m calling these conditions “chaotic garbage” but it was fun to fight em for a half hour. Terra Mar Point.