Tags · swim2022
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Last swim of 2022 was in a pool.
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Swam some laps in mostly dark. Move nearly done.
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It was big and firing today! I have been a week away from the ocean. Too long but worth it to be on the new adventure of moving!
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swim zone\o.b.
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Ice cream headache at the top of me; numb toes at the bottom of me.
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Conditions before the storm: plenty chilly; wind rising; some good waves; better, maybe, for kiteboarders.
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At Moonlight Beach earlier. Taken by my pal Margot visiting from NorCal.
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Bodysurfed at Del Mar with a bunch of other bodysurfers. Weird but very pleasant to be in a lineup with only other bodysurfers. So much skill on display. I’ve learned a lot; I have a lot to learn.
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Saturday mornings are good.
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I took the day off today and it was a chance to introspect my feelings, fears, angers. Knowing precisely or at least closely how I feel is always step 1 of sorting out what to do next. Also scored sweet shells. And I always consider dolphin sightings an auspicious omen. Despite my rational brain rejecting that as, of course, ridiculous. Onward.
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Scripps. Big waves today. Several jaunts spent getting trapped in; and getting out of rip currents.
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over\under at Scripps
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Start the day in water / End the day in water
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Thankful. 2022. #stoke
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Negative low tide nonetheless produced some fun powerful surf.
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Massive thickets of seaweed. I stayed until my toes were numb. Rode waves with fellow bodysurfer @quantumprimordial. Great session.
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Colder than yesterday. But better lefts and rights.
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Parked at Belmont Park & walked to the Jetty. Thanksgiving week for San Diego means folks visiting the beach. I’m all for it.
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Rare middle of the day aquatics
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Neck Foam. This morning was “messy” as I overheard one surfer say. But I got a “right” so good it might have been the best I ever rode a wave. I stayed on the lip as it did several shape changes. A fine long improvisation.
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O.B.E. (Ocean Beach, early)
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dawn patrol
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51°F air when I hit the water. Standard Time. Dawn patrol in my future.
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I don’t think about my novelty among the surfers but I am. Two conversations today. (I ride in on the face of a wave, end up near a surfer). He asks: “how are you doing that?!” “What?” I reply. “I mean, what are you riding?” I hold up my handplanes: “handplanes—for bodysurfing.” “Cool! Thanks!” …(later)… A surfer turns around and starts his takeoff in front of me. I go to ground, going to the bottom—it’s in my interest to be well out of the way of large heavy fiberglass boards moving fast. When I come up, the surfer is still there. He missed his wave. “You scared me!” he exclaims, but friendly. “Sorry,” I say, sincerely. “I didn’t know what you were! I thought you were a sea lion!” “Aren’t we all though?” I reply. #bodysurfing #stoke #handplane